“So This Is Christmas…”

Well, it’s safe to say this is going to be one of the more memorable Christmases…mainly due to its lack of memories. I suppose I shouldn’t say that…now that I think about it, this may be one of the most memorable Christmases since it is unlike any other I’ve had before. For one, the fan is on. Why, you ask? Well, it’s really stinking hot here. That may be the most glaring difference. Heat is not something I associate with Christmas unless it’s being emitted from an enormous pile of burning Christmas trees.

It’s Christmas morning…and so far it hasn’t been much unlike the majority of the other mornings here. Someone trying to get a hold of my host brother called my cell phone and got me out of bed earlier than I would have liked, combined with the incessant squawking of our adorable little parrots, the latest addition to the ongoing Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Ridiculous House of Pointless Pets and Noisemaking Things…aka my house. I must say, birds have got to be the silliest pet ever (sorry, Mia!). Seriously, all they do is make noise and poop. If you want me to sit around squawking and pooping all over the place I live, I will, I’ve got spare time. I cursed the birds, put some water on to boil, brushed my hair and sat down with a cup of hot chocolate and some delicious bread over a book (ALIVE by Piers Paul Read...read it!). Pretty standard.

Santa did not make a stop by our house…rather I was forced to climb over the wall since they decided to bolt the door. There are those days where I just want to smack my host family…but I guess that’s what makes them like your real family, right? It seemed like the majority of the Christmas celebrating went on last night. I got a phone call from my family back in Ohio celebrating my mom’s 50th birthday and the phone got passed around…it was great chatting with everyone and catching up…I’m going to call it the most Christmasy moment of the season so far. The highlight had to be my first grader cousin Bobby asking me indignantly “Where are you?” like my absence was merely because I was busy and had other things to do. The Von Allmens all wished me well and told me Merry Christmas and it was nice to be part of Christmas, even if it was just for a little bit. After I got off the phone my host brother came in with a bottle of champagne and a beer and the two of us along with his friend celebrated Christmas the campesino way by trying to inebriate ourselves. I have strong suspicions whether or not the champagne was real or not but regardless it was nice of them to stop by. It was about ten o’clock by then and I had gotten a text message (praise baby jesus for cell phone service in my site) from my friends down the road that I should come over and hang out there. On the way over I got stopped by my next door neighbors who invited me in for a bite to eat…I was thankful because I did not want to have to resort to fried chicken for dinner, which is what I eat most nights when I decide to do dinner. We talked a bit and they asked me about Christmas in America and I told them the biggest difference is that it’s really cold there. “Oh, like 50 degrees or so?” they ask me…and I just laugh.

I finished up my food and headed across the street to my other friends’ house. More of the same was going on there…sitting around chatting, some food, etc. I walked with my friend Maritza over to the church where there was supposed to be mass and a nativity re-enactment (thankfully, they did not ask me to play Jesus this time) After waiting for a half hour for the priest to show up, we decided to abandon that idea. We went and sat on the plaza for a bit and watched the much-too-young children throw firecrackers and fire roman candles at each other. Fireworks are apparently big here on Christmas. I couldn’t tell if these kids really were ridiculously young to be playing unsupervised with fireworks or if it was just my over-sensitive American-ness…of course this would never happen in America but we all need a reminder every once in a while that that is not necessarily a good thing. It’s true that you can never been too safe but these kids were having fun and I think we as Americans are sometimes a little too over-controlling. I can’t say I condone it letting tiny kids throw firecrackers at each other, but I will say after a few minutes of watching them I was feeling the pyromaniac itch and almost went and bought some of my own. Maritza and I decided against this and headed back to her house for a midnight dinner. Food at midnight seems to be the big tradition for Christmas here. It was kind of like New Years because right around midnight all the firecracker noise increased for a few minutes. I can’t say I liked it very much…for me Christmas is not a crazy free for all, but a more tranquil time. And you all know that’s tough for a self-proclaimed firework junkie like myself to say.

After midnight my friends began passing out their gifts to their little nieces and nephews, who all got one and were pretty darn excited about it. That, along with hugs and kisses were the only gifts exchanged that night. There was no talk of Santa Claus or reindeer or anything like that. It was a simple Christmas for simple people. It was a nice reminder that Christmas would still be incredibly special if you take away the presents. My good pal Carlos called me around 1am and we exchanged Feliz Navidads, which was nice. I sat around with the family and talked some more for a bit and then I headed home. I was surprised to find my host nephew Cristian (12 years old) standing on the porch outside of our house. “It’s locked,” he said. Usually this means with a key but for some reason tonight my host sister had bolted it, leaving us few options. I called Lidia my host sister inside the house (again, cell phone service is amazing) but her phone was turned off. I made an attempt to get on the roof but ended up just snapping off one of the big tiles…a commotion that caused my drunken neighbor Pasqual to come stumbling out from the back of his house. It was then I remembered that he had a ladder…I asked him if I could go into his yard and use his ladder to climb over the wall. He insisted that I stay for a few drinks first but I kindly turned him down. I climbed up the ladder and saw the pile of rusty-nail filled wood on the other side…jumping in the dark did not sound too appealing…so I sat up on the wall (the width of one brick) and precariously hauled the ladder up while trying to keep my balance, all the while with Pasqual laughing at the chance that I might fall and telling me that my strategy will never work. I would like to remind the reader that this is not some nice little lightweight fiberglass ladder one would get at say Home Depot…this thing was made of tree branches nailed and wired together and was pretty heavy. Thankfully I made it down ok and went and let Cristian in. Today I plan on removing the bolt from the door since we all have keys. I flossed and brushed and went to bed with the fan blowing on me…definitely another Christmas first.

Aside from the cold, the most striking difference I feel is the lack of a Christmas spirit. Albeit sometimes a little fake, people are usually more courteous and friendly around the holidays in the states…I do not really get that feel here and it kind of bums me out. I guess Christmas is special to everyone for different reasons and here it’s not much different than any other day off of work. I can’t blame anyone for not acting like I think they should just because it’s Christmas but it does make me miss my family. Regardless, I am feeling exceptionally cheery today, perhaps propped up by the cds of Christmas music my family sent me. I think it’s safe to say that it’s going to take a lot for me not to spend my next Christmas on School Section Road. ¡Feliz Navidad!